Also, extra balls are included in my kit. Even if the balls were not included in the kit, precision steel balls can be purchased at a bicycle shop in a series of sizes. Check the link in this paragraph for the sizes normally used. I measured them with a caliper through the plastic parts bag. I want to do as complete a rebuild as possible. Dirt may have found its way into the passageways where the balls are. The balls could also have rough surfaces through years of use.
If I turn the jack body back and forth I can hear metal balls rolling inside passageways. I drilled a hole in the center of each of the metal plugs.
Then I inserted a slightly larger sheet metal screw into the hole until the threads bound against the hole I drilled. I placed a pair of pliers under the head of the screw and pounded against the pliers with a hammer to pull the metal plug out of the jack's body. I repeated the process with the other plug. New plugs are included in the parts kit. The second photo shows the bottle jack unit's body, but inverted so it was easier to hold while operating the camera.
The metal plugs have been removed. Both holes have a large screw inside them. The one on the right is recessed so far that it is not visible. It is the safety overload valve. This valve protects the jack's seals from failing under a load heavier than the jack's rating.
When the safe range of the jack is exceeded, the safety overload valve opens like a pressure regulator to allow oil to return to the tank rather than entering the chamber for the ram. This screw has to be set so the safe level of pressure is not exceeded. In order to do that at home, I carefully turned this screw and counted by half-turns until it bottomed out. The safety overload valve should then be set very close to the original factory calibration.
One author noted that some jacks fail because the safety overload screw unscrews itself, which sets the jack's lifting ability to a much lower threshold, and the arm may not lift what you want to jack.
I found this screw turned with enough resistance that it is not likely to shift its position by itself. That same author also said most safety overload screws are about two turns looser than the bottoming out point. The third photo shows the parts for the safety overload valve in the order in which they are inserted.
A new ball is included in the parts kit. The fourth photo shows another special tool I made. The screw for the check valves is quite tight. The blade on the screwdriver broke! It is 8 on the hardness scale. Near the end I ground the diameter down until it fit nicely inside the recess for the screw.
I kept a cup of cold water near my grinding wheel to avoid softening the bolt with heat. I ground a rough profile by sight. I moved the bolt to a vise and finished cutting the profile of the screw slot by means of a hand file. I checked the dimensions with a digital caliper. When my improvised screwdriver fit the screw and its slot, I tapped on the bolt's head to be certain it had fully seated in the slot. I used a wrench on the bolt head and the screw came out with no difficulty, at all.
I had tried to buy a large screwdriver, but could find none this large. The fifth photo shows what was behind the check valve screw. See the text boxes for ball sizes. It is difficult to compress the spring in the plunger and remove the "C" retaining ring.
Care must also be taken not to scratch the machined end near the threaded end of the plunger body. This smooth end is the only seal. There is no washer or "O" ring. See the text boxes on the first photo. I dismantled the plunger because I was not certain if it would fly apart when I removed the nut from the threaded pin in the second photo. I could probably have removed the old seal without dismantling the plunger, but the threaded pin, nut, washer, and seal would have been retracted about 1 inch into the plunger body, and it would have been difficult to pry the seal out of the plunger body without compressing the spring in the plunger.
I made a special tool for assembling the plunger body again. See it and how it is used in the second and third photos at step The first photo shows a paper towel I pressed into the cylinder and rotated with a screwdriver without letting the screwdriver touch the sides of the cylinder. Be careful not to scratch the inside of the cylinder. Jack fluid is clear. The towel shows how much dirt was in my jack's oil. In addition to sopping up some dirty oil still in the cylinder, I poured a little clean jack oil into the openings and passageways.
Most of it collected in the opening for the plunger. At first this oil was cloudy. After a few tries, it was clear. I think this should adequately clean the jack so that it can be reassembled.
Inspect the seats in the bottle jack unit's body for signs of rust and pitting. The seats need to be clean and smooth. When I let sunlight shine into the recesses where there are seats, I saw more dirt. I used a wooden dowel rod to scrape and break loose any dirt I could find. I poured some jack oil into the holes to flush the dirt away. Second photo --Clean the groove that receives the tank's outer shell. It has some brown dried oil residue. Something brass would be ideal.
It would be tough enough to remove the residue, but would not scratch the machined surface. Someone said jack oil is a vegetable oil. The oil residue is certainly like what I have seen in the kitchen from vegetable oils. I kept the bag of parts inside the same shallow pan in which I assembled the bottle jack unit. This is so I am less likely to lose parts, especially the steel balls.
First photo --This shows the plunger body and the plunger parts. At the left three leather seals are shown. My jack does not use these. Several different parts came in more than one version. I think the same parts kit is sold for several similar, but different jacks. I have some parts I will not use on my jack. In the center area of the parts are the steel washer and the locking nut. The other two parts at the right are the old seal I removed. It has an oily sheen. Just below it is the replacement part my jack requires.
Second photo-- Coat the new neoprene seal with fresh jack oil. During the installation of all parts, double check for any grit or dirt sticking to the oily parts and remove it before the installation of that part.
Install the new neoprene seal, rounded end first. Install the steel washer and the locking nut. I will discuss how tight to tighten the locking nut after treating how to install the spring assembly onto the plunger body. I made a special tool for putting the plunger assembly back together. The wire came from stubs of concrete reinforcement wire broken off from a friend's foundation for his new garage. The third photo shows how this special tool is used.
I chucked this tool in my small drill press. The circle of wire at the end of the tool fits over the top of the cap for the plunger assembly. The two straight pieces welded crosswise allow the quill of the drill press to exert pressure downward and to collapse the spring so the "C" ring can be attached.
Notice that the bottom end of the plunger body presses against wood so the smooth machined surface is not scratched. I used an adjustable pliers to close the "C" ring. My drill press has limited adjustment. I used a couple of pieces of wood on the drill's base in order to achieve the desired distance between the chuck and the surface supporting the smooth end of the plunger. Now tighten the locking nut mentioned in connection with the first photo in steps. Push the plunger down and let the spring cause it to return.
Tighten the nut more and more until the plunger appears it may become sluggish to return. Back the nut off just a little. Check the plunger for dust and particles of wood. Thread the plunger into the base of the bottle jack unit.
Tighten with a wrench and hit the wrench several times with a hammer to make a good seal, since there is no "O" ring or copper washer to make the seal.
First photo --I have a dental pick I can use to remove old seals. This "O" ring shows cracks from age when stretched a little.
Match the new "O" ring from the parts kit to the old "O" ring. Coat it with jack oil. Install the new "O" ring. Second photo --Install the conical metal seal in the hole for the release valve. The pointed end goes in first. Tamp on it with a small screwdriver to make sure it seats at the bottom of the hole. Thread the release valve into the hole. First photo --The hole for the check valves has a copper sealing washer inside it.
The old washer is barely visible in the hole. Note its color. A new copper washer is supplied in the parts kit. The old washer has compressed to fit very tightly. There is no good way to remove it. I did not want to fill the passageways in my jack with copper shavings from digging it out in pieces. I decided simply to place the new washer on top of what is left of the old washer.
This photo was made before the plunger and the release valve were installed. Second photo --Install the parts in the order shown in this photo from step 8. The release valve and the plunger are not shown in this photo. Use the new balls from the parts kit. Do all of this inside a pan or shallow cardboard box so none of the balls are lost if one gets away from you.
Tamp the parts down with a small screwdriver so they settle down as far as possible in their hole. Carefully start the screw plug with a screwdriver. It is easy to crossthread. Use the special screwdriver made from a hardened bolt to tighten the screw plug with a wrench. Third photo --Install the parts shown in this photo from step 8. Drop the new ball into the hole. Insert the spring into the open end of the cap and drop both into the hole.
Insert the screw plug. Carefully turn the screw plug until the valve assembly bottoms out. I chose not to install the metal plugs that close the valve holes yet in case I would need to open one of the valves during testing of the jack to correct a problem. First photo --The dental pick is too weak to remove the ram seal on the bottom end of the ram.
I used a small screwdriver. Notice how the seal cracks and breaks after forty years. Remove the nylon collar behind the seal and clean away any fragments. Second photo --The parts kit includes three ram seals. Two of them appear to match the old seal in the first photo. Check the opening of the cylinder with a caliper and use the seal that most closely matches it. The new ram seals are not very pliable. I had to press down on the ram while it was positioned over the hole in the seal.
That got it started. Then I could wrestle the seal onto the ram the rest of the way. Third photo --The open portion of the cup-like seal should point toward the bottom of the ram and of the jack. Clean away any gritty pieces of dirt. Coat the new seal with jack oil. Coat the inside of the cylinder with jack oil before inserting the ram. You should be able to pull the ram up and push it down with your hand. A seal too large in size makes the ram very difficult to install and to move.
Be careful. Never use a hammer on the top end of the ram. On my jack I learned the hard way that it is cast iron and chips will break off of it. Before polishing, as well as every week, you should give your floors a thorough cleaning. This simple maintenance will keep your hardwood floors looking like new for years to come. Before polishing your wooden floor, clean it with a vacuum cleaner to remove dust and debris. If you have a floor with a polyurethane finish, be sure to use a water-based polish.
Test the polish on an area in a closet or under a large piece of furniture to make sure it doesn't discolor the wood. If no harm is done, apply the polish directly to the floor or rub it on with a microfiber cloth, starting at the interior corner.
Polish 3 by 3 foot sections of the floor at a time and leave the section at the door until last so you can get out of the room easily. If you want to learn how to mop and buff your floor before applying polish, keep reading the article! Did this summary help you? Yes No. Log in Social login does not work in incognito and private browsers. Please log in with your username or email to continue.
No account yet? Create an account. Edit this Article. We use cookies to make wikiHow great. By using our site, you agree to our cookie policy. Cookie Settings. Learn why people trust wikiHow. Download Article Explore this Article parts. Tips and Warnings. Things You'll Need. Related Articles. Article Summary. Part 1. Remove furniture and rugs. Ask a friend or family member to help you lift heavy furniture.
Roll up any area rugs and remove them, as well. Vacuum your floors. This removes the dust and debris. Vacuum cleaners with faulty wheels can scratch floors. Find out the finish of your floor. Polyurethaned floors have a hard finish. You can clean them with a small amount of water. Test a small area of the floor you normally cover with furniture or a rug. Apply drops of the alcohol. After a few seconds, touch the spot with an old cloth. If it softens to the touch, the finish is lacquer.
Mop polyurethaned floors. Mix a few drops of dishwashing liquid with a bucket of water. Run the mop along the grain.
Start at the interior corner and work outward toward a doorway. This motion will keep you from stepping on your wet floors. Wipe up excess liquid if you see standing water. It can cause damage and buckling in your floors. Com Nude Celebs - Chubby Celebs Compilation vol 2 Helen Hunt nude - The Sessions 1M. Nude Celebrities with Big Natural Boobs 2 Mimi Rogers - Full Body Massage Show all related videos.
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